B's Take on Trims...

I'll start off by saying that I'm not a huge fan or advocate of trimming your ends. Hair grows from the root and no amount of trimming will change that fact. Hair will grow regardless of how the ends are doing. With that said...

I don't believe in trimming hair very often, maybe 2-3 times a year unless extremely necessary. I think they are necessary when you have the following:

Tons of split ends and breakage
Uneven hair that you want to level off
Thin, damaged, see thru ends

That's it. Outside of these 3, there is no reason to trim your hair. Most hair dressers will tell you that you need a trim when in most cases, it's mainly for aesthetic reasons...basically, just so your hair will look "nice and healthy".

What's the problem with that you say? I personally like to focus on not making it "look" nice and healthy, but actually making it nice and healthy. Not only that but the hair growth rate of the average person is .5" per month. It takes you months to grow that glorious mane and you're willing to let someone take it away in a 3hr visit just to look nice?? Not me.

I also like to focus on retaining the length that I'm growing each month. Hair grows without any instructions to do so but that's the easy part. Taking care of it so that it stays on your head is a different story.

I like the concept of the Baggie Method. Its just you lightly moisturizing your hair, sealing with an oil and then placing a bag on your ends and securing with a scrunchy. This method is AMAZING! Not only are you growing all this hair but you get to keep it and enjoy it.

Anyway, here are my recommendations on what to do with your hair so you don't have to go for that trim:

Protective styles- up dos that keep your hair from rubbing on your clothes causing split ends and breakage. Also prevents your ends from drying out.

Moisturize those ends!- I can't stress enough how important moisture is for the hair. I recommend water based (Water/aqua Will be the first ingredient listed) Think of it this way, the ends are the oldest part of the hair, it warrants extra care to thrive.

Baggie, Baggie, Baggie!- like I said earlier this allows you to retain length. The concept is such...the plastic keeps the moisture in your hair so the hair is supple. It helps you cut down on needing trims b/c it drastically reduces and /or stops breakage so your ends aren't damaged and they don't thin out.

Treat your hair like SILK- Hair is made of Keratin, which just happens to be very similar in composition to Silk. I don't know about you but I wouldn't rough handle my precious silk garments so why do it to your hair? Comb gently, avoid as many harsh chemicals as you can and just be easy on it in general.

Deep condition- Black/African American hair requires the right kind of care to thrive. I think that deep conditioning is a part of that care, it helps to build hair up when its beaten down by chemicals, the environment and hard water.

Ok, so I don't like trimming, what do I recommend in its place? Dusting/Search and Destroy.
Dusting can mean one of 2 things:

1 Trimming no more than 1/8" from your hair just to focus on eradicating splits
OR
2 Search and destroy. Go thru your ends and look for splits and cut only them.

"Won't that thin out my hair?" Nope! I do it pretty often and my hair is Uber thick. Its still even from my last trim in July b/c of the baggie method. You're not cutting any more than right above the actual split itself.

Either one of these methods is a great way to keep your hair healthy, looking fabulous and LONG!

**I recommend using the Lunar/Moon Cycle calendars to time your trims or dusting to get the best results. Here is a link to 2009's calendar so you can plan them ahead but they change yearly so you can just get on Yahoo or Google and get one :-)

http://www.morroccomethod.com/lunar.shtml

My General Recommendations

Keep your scalp clean, wash your hair often. Not always with shampoo though, conditioner is a good route to go. (It’s a Myth that we can’t wash our hair everyday, relaxed or not.) I wash with conditioner nightly, every other night if I’m tired and only use shampoo 1-2 times a week.

Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! Our hair needs a lot of moisture in general but out here it needs more. You can use oils but use them after applying a water based moisturizer. Oils do not moisturize, they seal the hair cuticle so if you apply to dry/non-moisturized hair you will experience breakage. (I recommend care free curl instant moisturizer and care free curl gold hair & scalp spray My hair can attest to this) I moisturize 2x daily, once in the AM and once in the evening after I wash.

Try not to over manipulate your hair and wash it going straight down behind you in the shower so you don’t experience too much tangling which leads to ripping your hair out and breakage. Use your fingertips to massage the poo/co and cleanse the scalp, the hair will get clean when the poo/co is flowing thru it during the rinse phase.








Your hair should basically look like this when you're done washing it.






Deep condition your hair often, weekly if possible.

Take vitamins, if you don’t take hair vitamins at least take a daily multivitamin.

Eat well and drink water, it does help your hair growth.


If you have any questions or want to know about a product let me know, I might have tried it or know someone that has tried it.

My Regimen, Hair products and Tips...

…I know, it’s a lot, I’m a product junkie:-) (Don’t worry these are only suggestions, I’m not telling you to go and buy but if something sounds interesting at least you will have some idea if it’s good or not)


I use short cuts so here,

Acronyms:
EVOO-Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Co-Conditioner
Poo-Shampoo
DC-Deep Conditioner
UBH-Ultra Black Hair

My regimen:
I co-wash every night or every other night if I'm tired. Wash with poo and DC once a week, don’t co-wash on that night. I use my growth aid nightly after the co-wash. I use the Carefree curl stuff daily to moisturize my hair. I use the Profective daily after the Carefree curl stuff (mainly around the perimeter of my head, every inch) I also use the Mango Butter around the edges, I switch up between this and the Profective when I feel like it.

To develop your own Hair Care Regimen, start of slow, steady and simple. If you truly disslike the current state of your hair, you should evaluate what you're doing now and the products you are using. Keep using them for a few weeks, following the directions closely and see exactly what they do for your hair. Check out the label and see what ingredients are listed. If you see no improvement, look at products with different ingredients and try them out for about a month and so forth. Now, in order for this to be effective, you need to listen to your hair. I'm going to post some data on how to do a strand test so you can know which route to go and what ingredients to look for based on what your hair needs. Your hair will occasionally talk to you, I'm going to show you how to listen and respond :-)

Claudie’s Hair Revitalizer- A sulfur growth aid that can get you an inch (or in some cases more) of growth in a month (Hair normally grows .5” per month) I use it every night after my co-washes. I try to stop for a while to give my hair a break every other month for about a month or so.
http://www.claudieshairrevitalizer.com/ (she also has an edge balm…I forget what its called but you should see it)

You can also check her products out here:
http://members.fotki.com/HairRevitalizer/about/ Feel free to look around at her pics, reviews and all that!

Sulu Max Gro- http://www.suluhair.com/
Max Gro is a sulfur growth aid can get you an inch of growth in a month (Hair normally grows .5” per month) It stinks so I mixed it with some peppermint oil. I use after my nightly co-washes. (from the makers of MTG, this has a better carrier oil and doesn't smell as strongly as the MTG, but it still stinks somewhat, peppermint oil helps)

MTG- (Don’t worry, it was originally made for humans with scalp conditions, someone used it on their horse and saw the growth…) http://www.shapelys.com/
MTG is a sulfur growth aid can get you an inch of growth in a month (Hair normally grows .5” per month) Same thing as Sulu Max Gro, made by the same company as well.


Tea Tree oil- Has antibacterial properties and stimulates circulation so I use it in my co-wash mix and sometimes I dilute the poo with water and add a few drops of this for an extra clean feeling (it tingles a little) http://www.herbalremedies.com/

Peppermint Oil- this and Tea Tree oil get added to a lot of thingshttp://www.herbalremedies.com/

Co-wash mix I use a water bottle, these are approximate measurements
4 tablespoons moisturizing conditioner (or any conditioner you like)
About 2 tablespoons EVOO
4-5 drops of tea tree oil (a little goes a LONG way)
1 teaspoon peppermint oil
About 3 tablespoons of water

It should be about the same consistency or a little thinner than yogurt. Use it to wash your hair, focus on the scalp. Massage it with the pads of your fingertips, not the nails. I make sure my hair is laying down flat/flowing down my back like in the pics and don’t manipulate my hair like they do in the commercials b/c that causes tangles. When it gets an inch longer I’m going to put it in 4 braids and wash it that way…http://www.growafrohairlong.com/ (Robin has instructions and a video on how to wash your hair in braids like I described)

Source of Life Liquid vitamin- I love, love, love this! It tastes way better than any liquid vitamin I have tasted. It gives you a lot of energy. I was taking Centrum previously and it helped with my hair but this is more potent and has more stuff in it. http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Plus-Source-Life-Liquid/dp/B00014IHKA/sr=1-1/qid=1172488935/ref=sr_1_1/103-6107823-7211867?ie=UTF8&s=hpc

Porosity control conditioner/corrector- I like this a lot too. It corrects the PH and porosity of your hair. Your hair feels different the instant this touches it. It’s one of my staple products now. http://www.amazon.com/Roux-Porosity-Control-Corrector-Conditoner/dp/B0002030QO/sr=8-1/qid=1172488889/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-6107823-7211867?ie=UTF8&s=hpc

Dove- The moisturizing formula (white bottle) is the line I use for my daily co-washes, I use the shampoo too for my weekly poo washes. My hair feels soft after this.

Herbal Essence- Hello Hydration Poo and Co…I LOVE this stuff!!!

Conditioners for daily Co-wash- I use moisturizing Co only, any cheap kind White Rain, Suave, whatever. Nothing with protein b/c this is a daily thing for me (You can co-wash as often as you like) if it says: amino acid (wheat, silk or other), protein, lysine…don’t get it b/c those are proteins. Yes I do read EVERY label on the hair product before I buy it. (too much protein causes brittle dry hair)

Shampoo for weekly wash- Again, nothing with protein.

Poo mix (I do this when my hair doesn't feel really dirty but my scalp itches and I want to wash it without stripping it. I use a water bottle, these are approximate measurements):
1-2 tablespoons Poo
3-4 tablespoons Baking soda (anti-itch)
6-8 drops of tea tree oil (a little goes a LONG way)
About 1 cup of water

This will be really thin so be careful about your eyes. I just pour the mix on my head, massage my scalp and let it sit for a few. I do this 2-3 times b/c it's so mild.

Care Free Curl Instant Moisturizer- Use this daily right before the carefree curl gold spray (see bellow).

Care Free Curl Gold Scalp and Hair spray- I love this stuff, use it daily.

Care Free Curl Gold Activator- It moisturizes and it gives a little hold, nice! I use it in lieu of gel for my phony ponies and it works out great for me.

EVOO- I use this sometimes after I moisturize to seal in the moisture. Oils do not moisturize! If you put just oil on dry hair, you have just sealed the cuticle with no moisture and no moisture will be able to get in so the hair will dry out and start breaking.

Profective Mega Growth (in the yellow jar)- I like this a lot, it’s a good creamy moisturizer, I use it around the entire perimeter of my head and make sure to saturate the back where my wig rubs...dry hair breaks easily. I sometimes apply to the shaft of my hair and ends when it feels like it needs the extra TLC.

Elasta QP Mango Butter- I like this a lot, it’s a good moisturizer, I mainly use it around the entire perimeter of my head and make sure to saturate the back where my wig rubs...dry hair breaks easily (I alternate with the Profective)

Aphogee Treatment for damaged hair- WOW!! I love this and use it after every relaxer. This is a serious protein treatment (Which is why I’m trying to stay away from everyday use of protein). Follow the instructions to the letter b/c when you blow dry the product; it makes your hair extremely hard and easy to break. (Don’t move it or touch your hair) my hair felt really strong after using it. My mom sent this but you can get it here:

http://www.folica.com/ApHOGEE_Treatme_d115.html (they have the 4oz bottle here) Make sure to use a rich moisturizing conditioner after this. Aphogee, Motions, Silk Elements and Elasta QP all make really good ones.

Ultra Black Hair Deep Conditioner-Amazing!!! I just started using it weekly to DC. It stimulates my scalp like crazy and makes my hair strong. Cathy Howse says that a good Deep conditioner for “us” should Stimulate your scalp, Lubricate the hair shaft and Strengthen/Repair any damage. This conditioner does it all but you MUST use a sit under dryer or heating cap or it won’t work. I got a bonnet attachment for my handheld blow-dryer, just like sitting under a dryer:-)

This is where you can get the Cathy Howse conditioner http://www.ultrablackhair.com/

Ultra Black Hair Moisturizing Crème- I use this after I DC with the conditioner above


Cholesterol-my mom bought me the Lustrasilk cholesterol with aloe and I like it, I usually mix it with stuff. Mainly in my co-wash mix, I just do whatever I feel like with that mix so it varies. When I use it straight it does a great job of detangling, when I have a ton of new growth and use this I can actually run my fingers thru my hair and feel my scalp!! (That is a No-go otherwise, LOL)